Ragazza Lace Shawl, spring crochet lace shawl, is a rectangular sister of the Japandi Lace Shawl. Similarly, it is a fusion of simplicity and gentle utility in one beautiful lace project, but without increases worked on both sides which makes it a perfect beginner project.
The sport weight yarn makes it a beautiful light accessory to wear on days out as well as into the office when the sun is out, but you need something extra for chilly mornings or evenings.
The shawl is worked from bottom up to create a rectangular shape with lace texture.
Last updated: 05/05/2024
You can purchase the add free PDF version of the pattern at LoveCrafts here and Ravelry here.
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Skills required:
To create this beautiful spring crochet lace shawl you will need to master (or already know) these stitches and techniques:
Chain, Tunisian crochet technique (alternating forward and return passes), Tunisian knit stitch (tks), yarn over (yrh), stitch pattern bind-off, blocking.
Skill level:
Finished measurements:
The final spring crochet lace shawl measurements (blocked):
155 x 33 cm (approx. 61 x 13 in)
Unblocked size: 124.5 x 18 cm (approx. 49 x 7 in)
Materials and tools
To get the exact look as on the pictures of my spring crochet lace shawl, you will need:
Hobbii Friends Extra Fine Merino (100% Merino wool | sport weight | 50 g (1.76 oz) = 165 m (180 yds)), Cream (#04) 2 balls [lot used for the sample was 260]
Tunisian crochet hook size 5 mm (US size H-8) with cable (at least 100 cm (40β)) or size to obtain the gauge
Tapestry needle
Scissors
Other yarn alternatives:
Please always swatch when substituting yarn:
Katia Merino Baby
Lana Grossa Merino Superiore
Drops Design Drops Baby Merino
For further alternatives, please see:
Hobbii Friends Extra Fine Merino | Substitutes (yarnsub.com)
You can get your craft supplies here.
Gauge:
Blocked Gauge:
12 sts x 8 rows = 10 x 10 cm (4 x 4 in) over st pattern
Unblocked Gauge:
16 sts x 16 rows = 10 x 10 cm (4 x 4 in) over st pattern
Yarn over was counted as a stitch when measuring gauge, both unblocked and blocked.
Gauge is not essential for this project, but it will impact the amount of yarn used.
Gauge helps you to understand how the project turns out in terms of the final size. If you would like to achieve the exact size of the final project as in the instructions above, you gauge needs to match exactly to the above.
If you get more stitches and/or rows than stated above using the exact hook size as per instructions, your final project will turn out smaller. Conversely, if you get less stitches and/or rows than stated above using the exact hooks size as per instructions, your final project will turn out bigger.
To make adjustments, if you get more stitches and/or rows, you can try using bigger hook size to get closer to the desired size. Conversely, if you get less stitches and/or rows, you can try using smaller hook size to get closer to the desired size.
It may take trial and error to try out a few hook sizes to achieve the exact size.
Alternatively, if you really don’t want to make several samples to achieve the desired size, you can try to alter your tension as you work the project. However, I would advise to try this out once you master the basics of Tunisian crochet as it may be a bit tiresome to try to master the basics of Tunisian crochet and focus on alternating your tension while working the project.
If this spring Tunisian crochet lace shawl is your first Tunisian crochet project and are not sure if this project matches your skills, I have a Tunisian crochet masterclass tutorial that will jump-start your Tunisian crochet journey!
Stitch guide:
Tunisian crochet stitches are worked in 2 steps; forward and return pass from right to left, with the number of sts (lps) increasing on the hook during the forward pass and decreasing during the return pass.
Return pass is worked in the same way for all stitches (rows of sts) used in this project as follows: 1 ch, *yrh, draw through 2 lps on hook, rep from * until 1 lp on hook.
Edge stitches:
Right edge stitch- This is the first lp on hook and counts as first st unless otherwise stated.
Left edge stitch- This st is referred to in the pattern as the End Stitch (ES) and is crocheted as follows: Rotate the end of the fabric towards yourself, insert the hook under both bars (left and right) of the last st, yrh and pul.
Tunisian crochet stitches:
- First row of Tunisian crochet: Insert the hook in the back bump of second ch from hook, yrh and pul across.
- Tunisian knit stitch: Insert the hook from front to back between the front and back vertical bar, yrh and pul. Standard return pass.
Bind off:
Stitch pattern bind off: * Insert hook from front to back between the front and back vertical bar, yrh, pul and pull through the lp that is on the hook, ch 1 [one lp remains on the hook]; rep from * to last 2 sts, insert hook from front to back between the front and back vertical bar, yrh, pul and pull through the lp that is on the hook work ES, pull through the lp that is on the hook, cut the yarn and fasten-off.
Abbreviations: | |
ch- chain | pul- pull up a loop |
st(s)- stitch(es) | FP- forward pass |
lp(s)- loop(s) | RP- return pass |
tks- Tunisian knit stitch | RS- right side |
yrh- yarn round the hook | approx.- approximately |
rep- repeat |
Stitch chart:
Notes:
- The Shawl is worked flat, from bottom up, RS facing from right to left.
- The stitch count refers to the number of lps on hook on FP.
- The basic stitch pattern is worked over 2 +1 stitches.
- Tks aligns with (is worked into) tks in the row below.
- Bind off row should be worked loosely to allow for the extra stretching during blocking.
- Wet blocking the shawl is essential for this project as it opens up lace stitches and highlights the stitch pattern.
Instructions:
Shawl
Chain 201.
Row 1 FP: Insert the hook in the back bump of second ch from hook, yrh and pul across. 201 lps on hook.
Row 1 RP and all other RPs: Standard RP.
Row 2: * Tks in next st, (skip the next st) yrh; rep from * to last 2 sts, tks in next st, ES.
Row 3: * Tks in next st (tks in the row below), (skip the next st) yrh (over yrh in the row below); rep from * to last 2 sts, tks in next st, ES.
Pattern repeat
Rows 4-27: Rep Row 3.
Row 28 (bind-off row): Stitch pattern bind-off.
Fasten-off.
Finishing:
Weave in all ends and block the spring crochet lace shawl to final measurements as above.
I would love to see and share your work on social media, use #ragazzalaceshawl or #exquisitecrochetuk.
Pattern support: exquisite.crochet.uk@gmail.com
Further resources:
Pattern video tutorial:
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You can purchase the add free PDF version of the pattern at LoveCrafts here and Ravelry here.
Did you enjoy the Ragazza Lace Shawl pattern? Why not try my other crochet lace patterns:
Thank you so much if you got this far in the pattern! I hope you got inspired for your own version using various colours. I can’t wait to see it! Don’t forget to tag me on Instagram and let me know in the comment section below how you got on with it! As always, if you have any pattern query, the quickest way to get it answered is by emailing me on the pattern support email address above.
Happy crocheting!
I have never done tunisian crochet before, but I think I will try one of your shawls! Can you tell me where a good place would be good to buy the merino yarn that you made your Ragazza Lace Shawl with?
I live in the United States, but I might be able to find it in the U.S.
I love the look of your shawl. Have you ever tried it in a different kind of yarn?
I think it would have to be a thinner yarn like yours instead of a thicker yarn so it will show the beautiful stitches that the stitch makes. Thank you so very much for the pattern!
I have never done tunisian crochet before, but I think I will try one of your shawls! Can you tell me where a good place would be good to buy the merino yarn that you made your Ragazza Lace Shawl with? I live in the United States, but I might be able to find it in the U.S. I love the look of your shawl. Have you ever tried it in a different kind of yarn?
I think it should be a thinner yarn like yours so it will show the beautiful stitches that the stitch makes. Thank you so very much for the pattern!
Hello Sharon,
Many thanks for your kind words! I have listed some alternatives in the pattern, i think some of these could be available in the US too. I think any Merino (superwash) in fine yarn weight would do. The main property I was looking for is the ability of the fiber to relax and not have lots of memory, so it would not bounce back to the pre-blocking shape and dimensions. Superwash Merino is perfect for this and it is great to wear close to skin for its softness. Please let me know how you get on with it!