Misty Sunrise Shawl is reminiscent of cool autumn foggy city mornings when sunshine works its way through thick layers of mist resulting in a milky white and yellow mixture on the background of urban scenery.
The two colours in the shawl are combined using stitches and sequences to highlight each colour and their combination to create an effect comparable with the natural spectacle. The shawl is made using Tunisian crochet technique. It is a medium size shawl that is a great layering option for colder weather.
I bought the yarn on a whim when I went to a yarn festival with two smalls. I know, I know, why would I ever do this to myself (I know better now!)? I loved everything about the yarn festival, however I had about 3 seconds for each stall before my little ones started complaining, running around, running off from me, so I couldn’t really appreciate and soak in the beauty of the hand-dyed yarn that was all around me, let alone to chat with the artist dyers.
So just before I left for the day, I asked my friend to look after my kids for a few minutes, before literally running through pass few stalls just looking for something that would attract my attention to take home. You can’t leave a yarn festival without some hand-dyed beauties, can you? And that is when I noticed The Urban Purl stall; the yarn was out of this world and I got two beautiful skeins that became the Misty Sunrise Shawl.
I worked on the shawl while I was expecting my third baby and finished it just after, so it has got a very special meaning and all those precious moments are woven into the shawl. I was considering to take photos for it after I gave birth and got back to my pre-pregnancy size but ended up just taking pictures the way I was no make-up and all and I am glad I did now. It makes looking at the photos that much more meaningful and reminiscent of the time during which the shawl came to be, together with my precious boy.
last updated 24/02/2024
You can purchase the add free PDF version of the pattern at LoveCrafts here and Ravelry here.
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Skills required:
Chain, Tunisian crochet technique (alternating forward and backward passes), Tunisian simple stitch (tss), Tunisian knit stitch (tks), Tunisian slanted stitch (tsls), Tunisian 2 together (t2tog), Tunisian full stitch (tfs), Return pass changing colours, Tunisian simple stitch bind-off, blocking.
Skill level:
Finished measurements:
The final shawl measurements (blocked):
Wingspan 137 cm x 68.5 cm (approx. 54 x 27”)
Materials and tools:
The Urban Purl Merino Singles (100% Superwash Merino Wool, | Sock/ Fingering | 100 g (3.5 oz) = 366 m (400 yds)), Celtic Torc (A) 1 skein, Urban Sprawl (B) 1 skein
Tunisian crochet hook size 4.5 mm (US size 7) with cable (at least 100 cm (39.5 in)) or size to obtain the gauge
Tapestry needle
Scissors
You can get your craft supplies here.
Gauge:
Blocked Gauge:
17.5 sts x 20 rows = 10 x 10 cm (4 x 4”) over tks
Gauge helps you to understand how the project turns out in terms of the final size. If you would like to achieve the exact size of the final project as in the instructions above, you gauge needs to match exactly to the above.
If you get more stitches and/or rows than stated above using the exact hook size as per instructions, your final project will turn out smaller. Conversely, if you get less stitches and/or rows than stated above using the exact hooks size as per instructions, your final project will turn out bigger.
To make adjustments, if you get more stitches and/or rows, you can try using bigger hook size to get closer to the desired size. Conversely, if you get less stitches and/or rows, you can try using smaller hook size to get closer to the desired size.
It may take trial and error to try out a few hook sizes to achieve the exact size.
Alternatively, if you really don’t want to make several samples to achieve the desired size, you can try to alter your tension as you work the project. However, I would advise to try this out once you master the basics of Tunisian crochet as it may be a bit tiresome to try to master the basics of Tunisian crochet and focus on alternating your tension while working the project.
Stitch guide:
Tunisian crochet stitches are worked in forward and return pass from right to left, with the number of stitches (loops) increasing on the hook during the forward pass and decreasing during the return pass.
Return pass is worked in the same way for all stitches (rows of stitches) used in this project as follows (EXCEPT when changing colours on return pass, please see below for details of this technique): 1 ch, *yrh, draw through 2 loops on hook, rep from * until 1 loop on hook.
Edge stitches:
Right edge stitch– This is the first stitch and is not usually worked into because there is one loop on the hook left after completing the return pass of the previous row. This one loop corresponds to the first stitch of the new row.
Left edge stitch– This stitch is referred to in the pattern as the End Stitch (ES) and is crocheted as follows: Rotate the end of the fabric towards yourself, insert the hook under both bars (left and right) of the last st, yrh and pul.
- First row of Tunisian crochet: Insert the hook in the back bump of second ch from hook, yrh and pul across. Standard return pass.
- Tunisian simple stitch: Insert the hook from right to left under front vertical bar of the next st, yrh and pul. Standard return pass.
- Tunisian knit stitch: Insert the hook from front to back between the front and back vertical bar, yrh and pul. Standard return pass.
- Tunisian two together: Insert hook from right to left under the front vertical bars of next 2 stitches, yrh and pul. Standard return pass.
- Tunisian slanted stitch: Insert hook from left to right under the front vertical bar of the next st, yrh and pul. Standard return pass.
- Tunisian full stitch: Insert hook from front to back between the next two vertical bars, yrh and pul. Standard return pass.
Tunisian simple stitch bind-off: Insert hook from right to left under front vertical bar of the next st, yrh, pul and pull through the loop that is on the hook. One loop remains on the hook.
Return pass changing colours in Tunisian crochet: The new colour is added when starting the return pass of the row and all loops of the forward pass are on the hook (i.e. End stitch was worked). Yrh with the old colour from front to back (this adds an extra loop on hook to create neat edge that matches the edge created during Standard RP). Add new colour on hook: draw through 2 loops, * yrh, draw through 2 loops on hook; rep from * until 1 loop on hook.
If this is your first Tunisian crochet project, I have a handy video covering all the basics of Tunisian crochet:
Notes:
The Misty Sunrise Shawl is worked flat, RS facing from right to left. The shawl starts in the middle of the wingspan and expands to the left, right, increasing in width with each consecutive row. Each row has an increase of 4 stitches (lps). The stitch count refers to the number of lps on hook on FP.
Blocking the shawl is essential for this project as it opens up lace stitches and highlights each individual stitch pattern.
The shawl is made in three distinct sections:
- Section made using tks only
- Lace section made using Tunisian 2 stitches together that is developed over 2 row repeat
- Section using the Waffle stitch pattern that is created using Tunisian slanted and Tunisian simple stitches. The stitch pattern is highlighted by changing colour on the return pass.
Instructions:
With A chain 6.
Row 1 FP: Insert the hook in the back bump of second ch from hook, yrh and pul across. 6 loops on hook.
Row 1 RP and all other RPs: Standard RP.
Row 2: Tks, tss in the same st as tks (increase made), tks, tss in the same st as tks (increase made), tsls, tks in the same st as tsls with the front vertical bar being on right and back vertical bar being on left (increase made), tks, tss in the same st as tks (increase made), ES. 10 loops on hook.
Rows 3: Tks, tss in the same st as tks (increase made), tks to centre 2 sts, tks in the right centre st, tss in the same st as last tks (increase made), tsls in the left centre st, tks in the same st as tsls with the front vertical bar being on right and back vertical bar being on left (increase made), tks to last 2 sts, tks, tss in the same st as tks (increase made), ES. 14 loops on hook.
Rows 4-11: As Row 3. 46 loops on hook.
Row 12: Tks, tss in the same st as tks (increase made), *t2tog, yrh; rep from * to centre 2 sts, tks in the right centre st, tss in the same st as last tks (increase made), tsls in the left centre st, tks in the same st as tsls with the front vertical bar being on right and back vertical bar being on left (increase made), *yrh, t2tog; rep from * to last 2 sts, tks, tss in the same st as tks (increase made), ES. 50 loops on hook.
Row 13: Tks in next 2 sts, tss, *tfs, tss; rep from * to centre 2 sts, tfs (increase made), tks in the right centre st, tss in the same st as last tks (increase made), tsls in the left centre st, tks in the same st as tsls with the front vertical bar being on right and back vertical bar being on left (increase made), tfs (increase made), *tss, tfs; rep from * to last 4 sts, tss, tks in next 2 sts, ES. 54 loops on hook.
Rows 14-21: Rep Rows 12-13. 86 loops on hook.
(Start changing colours on every RP from RP of Row 22 to Row 30 inclusive).
Row 22: Tks, tss in the same st as tks (increase made), *tss, tsls; rep from * to centre 2 sts, tks in the right centre st, tss in the same st as last tks (increase made), tsls in the left centre st, tks in the same st as tsls with the front vertical bar being on right and back vertical bar being on left (increase made), *tss, tsls; rep from * to last 2 sts, tks, tss in the same st as tks (increase made), ES. 90 loops on hook.
Row 22 RP: With B Standard RP.
Row 23 FP: As Row 22. 94 loops on hook.
Row 23 RP: With A Standard RP.
Row 24-29: Rep Rows 22-23. 118 loops on hook.
Row 30: As Row 22. 122 loops on hook.
Row 31 FP: As Row 22. 126 loops on hook.
Row 31 RP: Standard RP (NO change of colour).
Rows 32-51: With B as Row 3. 206 loops on hook.
Rows 52- 61: Rep Rows 12-21. 246 loops on hook.
(Start changing colours on every RP from RP of Row 62 to Row 70 inclusive).
Row 62 FP: As Row 22. 250 loops on hook.
Row 62 RP: With A Standard RP.
Row 63: As Row 22. 254 loops on hook.
Rows 64-69: Rep Rows 62-63. 278 loops on hook.
Row 70: As Row 62. 282 loops on hook.
Row 71 FP: As Row 22. 286 loops on hook.
Row 71 RP: Standard RP (NO change of colour).
Rows 72-81: With A as Row 3. 326 loops on hook.
Rows 82-83: Rep Rows 12-13. 334 loops on hook.
Row 84: Bind off.
Finishing:
Weave in ends and block to final measurements as in schematic.
I would love to see and share your work on social media, use #mistysunriseshawl or #exquisitecrochetuk
Pattern support: exquisite.crochet.uk@gmail.com
Abbreviations: | |
ch- chain | yrh- yarn round the hook |
st(s)- stitch(es) | pul- pull up a loop |
lp(s)- loop(s) | FP- forward pass |
tss- Tunisian simple stitch | RP- return pass |
t2tog- Tunisian 2 together | approx.- approximately |
tks- Tunisian knit stitch | rep- repeat |
tsls- Tunisian slanted stitch | RS- right side |
tfs- Tunisian full stitch | ES– End stitch |
Further resources:
Pattern Video tutorial:
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Did you enjoy the Misty Sunrise Shawl pattern? Why not try my other home shawl patterns:
Thank you so much if you got this far in the pattern! I hope you got inspired for your own version using various colours. I can’t wait to see it! Don’t forget to tag me on Instagram and let me know in the comment section below how you got on with it! As always, if you have any pattern query, the quickest way to get it answered is by emailing me on the pattern support email address above.
Happy crocheting!
I have always wanted to try Tunisian crochet and now here is a beautiful pattern to try. Thank you for sharing your beautiful design.
Thank you so much! I hope you enjoy the pattern:-)
This is a beautiful pattern I have done some Tunisian crochet. Do you have a video that shows how to work the center slant stitches? I can’t seem to get that right!
Hello Keri, I learnt the technique from this tutorial, hope you find it useful:
https://youtu.be/AwIKcCYDIOc
It’s a beautiful pattern. I’m struggling with the lace stitches though. A normal return pass seems to scrunch everything up horizontally. Do you have any advice?
Hello, many thanks! What comes to my mind is whether you crochet yo and pull through 2 throughout the RP. Lace usually loosens up the project a bit so I would expect the opposite effect to what you described. I can suggest to send me a photo on my crochet email : exquisite.crochet.uk@gmail.com and we can take it from there to get to the bottom of what is happening with the lace rows :-).