Radley Tunisian Hat

This crochet cabled hat, Radley Tunisian Hat, is a beautiful chunky 2-color Tunisian crochet hat that was inspired by the mystery of winding countryside roads that lead us to unknown treasures of nature.

The hat features 2 separate sections: folded ribbing and cabled body with right leaning cables worked over 6 stitches. The folded ribbing and pompom are made in one colour while the cabled section is crocheted in contrasting colour.

Although this is an intermediate project, it would make an amazing introduction to Tunisian crochet cables for an adventurous beginner!

Last updated: 27/11/2024

You can purchase the add free PDF version of the pattern at LoveCrafts here and Ravelry here.

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Skills required:

To create this beautiful crochet cabled hat you will need to master (or already know) these stitches and techniques:

Chain (ch), Tunisian crochet technique (alternating forward (FP) and return (RP) passes), Tunisian purl stitch (tps), Tunisian knit stitch (tks), make 1 (M1; increase stitch), Cable 3 back (C3B), Tss bind off (Tss BO), Locking Mattress Stitch, foundation cord, making a pompom, blocking.

Skill level:

Finished measurements:

The final crochet cabled hat measurements (blocked):

Size preemie (baby, toddler, child, tween, small adult, large adult; size and instructions listed in this order (x in the instructions means that it does not apply to a specific size)

10.75, 13.5, 16, 17.75, 19.5, 20.25, 22” circumference x 7.25, 9, 10, 11.25, 11.25, 12.75, 13.75” long, brim unfolded

Sample throughout this blog post shows size small adult

Materials and tools

To get the exact look as on the pictures of my crochet cabled hat, you will need:

Cascade Yarns 128 Superwash (100% Superwash Merino Wool | bulky weight | 100 g (3.5 oz) = 117 m (128 yds)), (#216) Beet Red (A) 1 (1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2) hanks, (#319) Pale Blush (B) 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2) hanks

US size 6.0 mm (J/10) Tunisian crochet hook with 25.5 cm (10”) cable

US size 6.5 mm (K/10.5) Tunisian crochet hook

or size to obtain the gauge

Tapestry needle

Scissors

Large pompom maker

You can get your craft supplies here.

Gauge:

Blocked Gauge:

14 sts and 10 rows = 4″ x 4” [10 x 10 cm] in ribbing using smaller hook after steam blocking

15 sts and 12 rows = 4″ x 4” [10 x 10 cm] in cable pattern using larger hook after steam blocking

Gauge helps you to understand how the project turns out in terms of the final size. If you would like to achieve the exact size of the final project as in the instructions above, you gauge needs to match exactly to the above.

If you get more stitches and/or rows than stated above using the exact hook size as per instructions, your final project will turn out smaller. Conversely, if you get less stitches and/or rows than stated above using the exact hooks size as per instructions, your final project will turn out bigger.

To make adjustments, if you get more stitches and/or rows, you can try using bigger hook size to get closer to the desired size. Conversely, if you get less stitches and/or rows, you can try using smaller hook size to get closer to the desired size.

It may take trial and error to try out a few hook sizes to achieve the exact size.

Alternatively, if you really don’t want to make several samples to achieve the desired size, you can try to alter your tension as you work the project. However, I would advise to try this out once you master the basics of Tunisian crochet as it may be a bit tiresome to try to master the basics of Tunisian crochet and focus on alternating your tension while working the project.

Stitch guide:

Tunisian crochet stitches are worked in forward and return pass from right to left, with the number of stitches (loops (lps)) increasing on the hook during the forward pass and decreasing during the return pass.

Return pass is worked in the same way for all stitches (rows of stitches) used in this project as follows:  1 ch, *yrh, draw through 2 loops on hook, rep from * until 1 loop on hook.

Edge stitches:

Right edge stitch- This is the first stitch and is not usually worked into because there is one loop on the hook left after completing the return pass of the previous row. This one loop corresponds to the first stitch of the new row.

Left edge stitch- This stitch is referred to in the pattern as the End Stitch (ES) and is crocheted as follows: Rotate the end of the fabric towards yourself, insert the hook under both bars (left and right) of the last st, yrh and pul.

M1 – Insert hook in the sp between next 2 sts (inc).

Tunisian simple stitch bind-off (Tss BO): Insert hook from right to left under front vertical bar of the next st, yrh, pul and pull through the loop that is on the hook. One loop remains on the hook.

Foundation cord – make a slip knot allowing enough yarn on the short end for the length of the foundation cord.

  1. Place the short end of yarn over the hook from front to back.
  2. Yarn over the hook with the long end of yarn and pull through both lps on the hook

C3B – TKS in next 6 sts, remove last 6 lps carefully from hook, place first 3 lps on cable needle and hold at the back of work, place second 3 lps back on hook, slide first 3 lps from cable needle back on hook crossing the second 3 lps.

Locking Mattress Stitch – Place the hat RS down with edges aligned side by side. Stitches will be worked through the top lps of each edge.

  • Start the seam by inserting the needle from left to right through the first stitches of both panels at the bottom.
  • Move one stitch up on the right side, insert the needle from right to left and continue to the first stitch on the left side (the one already worked into).
  • Move one stitch up on the left side, insert the needle from left to right and continue to the last stitch worked into on the right side.   

Repeat steps 2 and 3 to end.

If this crochet headband is your first Tunisian crochet project and are not sure if this project matches your skills, I have a Tunisian crochet masterclass tutorial that will jump-start your Tunisian crochet journey!

Abbreviations:   
ch- chain  yrh- yarn round the hook  
st(s)- stitch(es)  pul- pull up a loop  
lp(s)- loop(s)  FP- forward pass  
tps- Tunisian purl stitch  RP- return pass  
tks- Tunisian knit stitch  approx.- approximately  
ES- end stitchrep- repeat  
RS- right side  C3B- cable 3 back
M1- make 1 

Notes:

  • To make this crochet cabled hat, similar bulky weight yarn may be substituted; please check the gauge when making substitutions.
  • The hat is worked flat from inside out starting with a crochet cord.
  • Ribbing is worked first, after which it is turned RS down and cabled section is worked from the other side of the crochet cord.
  • Sides are seamed using the Locking Mattress Stitch, the top of the hat is enclosed, and a large pompom added. 

Instructions:

Ribbing

With smaller hook and A, make foundation cord 38 (47, 56, 62, 68, 71, 77) sts long.

Row 1 FP: Starting with second st from hook, [insert the hook under top front and back lps or next foundation st, yrh and pul] across. (38 (47, 56, 62, 68, 71, 77) lps.

Row 1 RP and all other RPs: Standard RP.

Row 2: * Tps in next st, Tks in next 2 sts; rep from * to last st, ES.

Rows 3-11 (11, 11, 16, 16, 18, 18): Rep row 2.

Row 12 (12, 12, 17, 17, 19, 19): Tss bind-off.

Fasten-off.

Body of the hat – cables

Change to larger hook and B.

Place the ribbing RS down with the last row being at the bottom. Attach yarn to the first st of the other side of crochet foundation cord (under front and back lps).

Row 1 FP: Starting in second st from hook, *insert the hook under top front and back lps, yrh and pul; rep from * across (38 (47, 56, 62, 68, 71, 77) lps on hook at end of this row).

Row 1 RP and all other RPs: Standard RP.

Sizes x (baby, toddler, child, x, small adult, x)

Row 2: [Tks in next st, M1] x (3, 2, 4, x, 3, x) times, Tks in each st across to last st, ES (x (50, 58, 66, x, 74, x) lps.

Sizes preemie (x, x, x, tween, x, large adult)

Row 2: [Tks in next 2 sts together (dec), Tks in next st] 4 (x, x, x, 2, x, 3) times, Tks in each st across to last st, ES (34 (x, x, x, 66, x, 74) lps.

All sizes

Row 3: Tps in next st, C3B, * Tps in next 2 sts, C3B; rep from * to last 2 sts, Tps in next st, ES.

Row 4: Tps in next st, Tks in next 6 sts, * Tps in next 2 sts, Tks in next 6 sts; rep from * to last 2 sts, Tps in next st, ES.

Row 5: Rep row 4.

Rows 6-8: Rep rows 3-5.

Size preemie only

Row 9: Rep row 3.

Row 10: Rep row 4.

Sizes x (baby, toddler, child, tween, small adult, large adult)

Rows 6-14: Rep rows 3-5.

Size baby only

Row 15: Rep row 4.

Sizes x (x, x, child, tween, x, x)

Rows 15-16: Rep rows 3-4.

Sizes x (x, toddler, x, x, small adult, large adult)

Rows 15-17: Rep rows 3-5.

Sizes x (x, toddler, x, x, small adult, x)

Row 18: Rep row 4.

Size large adult only

Rows 18-20: Rep rows 3-4.

Row 21: Rep row 4.

All sizes

Row 11 (16, 19, 17, 17, 19, 22): Tss bind-off.

Fasten-off.

Pompom

Using A and large pompom maker, make a pompom using approximately 45 g of A.

Finishing:

Weave in ends and block to final measurements.

Place the hat with ribbing down and RS on the inside of the folded hat, sew the ribbing using the Locking Mattress Stitch and A. Fasten off once you get to cabled section.

Turn the hat inside out and place it with cabled section WS down. Sew the cabled section using the Locking Mattress Stitch and B.

Create a draw string using B through the Tss bind-off row. Tighten it to enclose the crown of the hat. Sew in all ends.

Attach the pompom to the crown of the hat and sew in last 2 ends.

I would love to see and share your work on social media, use #radleytunisianhat or #exquisitecrochetuk.

Pattern support: exquisite.crochet.uk@gmail.com

Further resources:

Pattern video tutorial:

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You can purchase the add free PDF version of the pattern at LoveCrafts here and Ravelry here.

Did you enjoy the Radley Tunisian Hat pattern? Why not try my other winter accessories patterns:

Winding Cables Hat and Scarf

Ebun Hat, Cowl and Headband

Ice Queen Cowl

Holiday Memories Cowl

Thank you so much if you got this far in the pattern! I hope you got inspired for your own version using various colours. I can’t wait to see it! Don’t forget to tag me on Instagram and let me know in the comment section below how you got on with it! As always, if you have any pattern query, the quickest way to get it answered is by emailing me on the pattern support email address above.

Happy crocheting!